Hello, I'm Chris. Today, we're going to talk to you about hinges. How to install the hinges on the doors different types of overlay for these hinges, and how to get the doors mounted on to the cabinets.
These are European style, soft-close, hidden hinges. They come in sizes 3/8" to 1-9/16" depending on the overlay of the door you have in your kitchen, and they mount very simply. The door you order is going to have the cup hole bored already in it - you just need to place the hinge in the hole, press it down so it's flat, make sure it is square-shouldered to the edge of your door so it's even, and then drive 2 screws into the open holes. Very simple.
So, if you choose to have your doors bored by us, they will come 3" centered down from the top and up from the bottom - it's a standard bore.
Today, we're going to use the 1/2" overlay hinge, which is the most common hinge in kitchens. So, what you do is place it inside the pre-drilled hole, make sure it's down snug all the way, square up the shoulders to make sure it's even with the edge of the door, and install 2 screws into the holes. That's all there is to it - a very simple operation to get the hinges mounted.
So, we'll move to the upper hinge, make sure it's square with the shoulder, and install the 2 screws. There you have it - now you're ready to install this door onto the cabinets.
So, now that you've installed your hinges, and again, we've used 1/2" overlay hinges on this particular setup, they are the most common in kitchens today - we're going to mount this door to the cabinets. Now, the hinges we're using today are for mounting to face frame cabinetry, so they will actually mount right to the side of the frame of the cabinet.
Now you're ready to hang the door on your cabinet. So, you want to put it to the height of the overlay you're looking for in your kitchen, across the bottom here. Get your hinge centered on the face frame and drive the screws - one on the bottom and one on the top.
Now that you've hung your door onto your cabinetry, you're going to need to adjust it for things being out of square and out of level. Notice how this door is wobbling at the top? So, there's two ways to adjust these hinges - the back screw will adjust the hinges in and out off the face frame to stop that wobble. The other screw in the front is to adjust the door going left and right.
So, you want to look at your reveal - you see you have a large reveal at the top than you do here at the bottom. At the top we have 3/4" and at the bottom we're showing 5/8", so I could run that front screw out to bring that door over until it's where you need it be.
So now your door is tight on the top and the bottom, even across the bottom, your reveal is even, and it's in line with the other doors beside it.
Hello, I'm Chris. Today, we're going to show you how to order your drawer box for your kitchen for the soft close undermount guide system.
First thing you'll notice about these boxes - they're solid wood, 5/8" thick with a dovetail corner - very solid drawers. With the undermount system, you're going to need to check on the website that you order for "notch and bore" to allow for the guides to sit in the back of that drawer.
So, when you're measuring for your drawer box, the width needs to be 3/8" smaller than the opening. In this case, the opening is 21", so the drawer box is going to measure 20-5/8" when you order it. The height needs to be 3/4" smaller than the opening. In this case, the drawer box opening is 4-3/4", so you would order a 4" drawer box.
So, there's a couple different pieces to the undermount system. You're going to have a glide for the right, a glide for the left, 2 adjustable clips that actually get mounted on the box, and a mounting foot for the back of the rail. The rails come in 3" increments, starting at 9 inches and you can get them all the way up to 30 inches for special applications.
The next thing you're going to need to do is mount your rail into the cabinet itself. There's two ways to mount these - if you have the old style cabinetry that does not have an inset here in the face frame, you can attach just using these holes in the side of the rail. In this case, we're going to use the mounting foot that attaches to the back of the cabinet, slides in the groove there and we can mount it this way in the back.
So, we're mounting the bracket to the back of the cabinet. Then we can mount our guide into that foot. It slides right into that foot. Now, the front of the guide - this second notch lines up with the inside of the face frame so you know you have the proper distance. We'll set it inside the back mounting foot and adjust it so that it hits the backside of the frame. Then, you just need to put 2 screws into the front and you're ready to mount your box inside.
So, when you go to mount your clips, the square shoulder goes into the corners. There's 2 small screws you're going to mount into these holes, but it's very important to pre-drill those holes so you don't split this bottom rail.
So, once you have your clips in place and your holes pre-drilled for the screws, you can go ahead and mount them. One thing about the clips underneath - once you get your drawer box installed, you might need to shimmy it left and right or up and down. There's an adjustment here to raise the drawer box up and down to get it flush with the face frame and there's an adjustment here to get it to go left and right if it's binding.
So, now that you've installed your clips, it's just a matter of sliding the box over the rails and pushing it in until you hear the click. You can pull it out to test if it is secure - notice how it's full extension on these drawers. So now, you're all set to re-install your drawer front and your hardware.