HOW TO SAND AND REPAINT CABINETS

Updated January 23, 2025

Experienced woodworkers and casual DIYers alike can spend a weekend refinishing their cabinets and breathing new life into a kitchen or bathroom. While a one-time sanding and refinishing project can transform your cabinet into exactly what you want, it does require a little foresight. To help you get the job done, we'll go over how to sand cabinets to prepare them for a top-tier finish and give you actionable finishing tips.

WHAT YOU'LL NEED TO SAND AND FINISH CABINETS

Sanding a cabinet is a fairly straightforward project. Cabinets and their components, like doors, are easy to work with since they are not unusually large and bulky. As with every sanding project, you'll want to get your materials together before you run the sandpaper on the wood.

Before you get started, here are cabinet sanding tools to collect:

• Sander: A sander is a must-have tool for sanding. Professional sanding requires different types, but preferably an orbital sander. You could hand sand your cabinet, but it will take a lot of elbow grease. You may even want to use both. An orbital sander can make quick work of the bulk of the project, but a sanding block or sanding sponge can help you cover any grooves or tight spots by hand.
• Sandpaper: Choose sandpaper that fits your sander of choice. We'll talk more about grits later, but some common grits for this job are 120, 180 and 220.
• Vacuum: A dust extraction vacuum is ideal for sucking away sawdust. The fine particles can jam up a household vacuum, so make sure you use one designated for sanding. You can even get vacuums that attach to orbital sanders and pull dust directly through holes in the sanding pad.
• Tack cloth: A tack cloth is a lightweight cloth with a sticky texture, used for picking up fine sawdust particles before finishing.
• Coverings: Depending on your workspace, you might want to place a drop cloth around where you'll be sanding and finishing. It can make cleanup easier and protect your floors and furniture.
• Degreaser: You'll want a basic degreaser to make sure the cabinets are free of any residue that would affect the result. You can use a typical dishwashing liquid, but a dedicated paint prep solution like trisodium phosphate (TSP) is good for tough grease.
• Finish materials: Whether you're staining, painting, or sealing, have your finish ready to go. If you use an oil-based finish, remember to get some mineral spirits to clean your brush or roller.
• Brushes, rollers, or spray: Collect the tools you'll use to apply your finish.

• Paint stripper and putty knife: If you're sanding finished wood and removing a previous layer, you may want to use a paint stripper before sanding. This substance will pull the existing material from the wood and cause it to clump up. With a putty knife, you can scrape off these clumps, leaving just the wood and a much easier sanding job.
• Wood-grain filler: Wood-grain filler works on open-grained woods, such as mahogany and oak, that have larger pores. Your finish can soak into these holes and create rougher surfaces. Wood-grain filler solves this issue and creates a smoother surface with fewer pores.
• Wood putty: Wood putty helps fill in nicks and dents to create a flat surface. Then, you can sand it and apply your finish over top.

You should also consider personal protective equipment (PPE). Sanding releases tiny particles into the air, especially when sanding off an old finish that could contain dangerous chemicals. Some finishes can also release hazardous chemicals. Keep your eyes, ears, lungs and extremities safe by wearing protective gear, such as:

• Eyewear: Safety goggles are great since they create a seal against dust, but glasses or face shields can also work.
• Hearing protection: Power tools can emit noise levels exceeding the recommended limit, exposing you to the risk of hearing damage. Grab some earmuffs or earplugs to keep your ears safe while sanding.
• Respiratory protection: If you're just sanding small amounts of wood, a simple dust mask might be suitable, but once you add a larger quantity of dust or chemicals from paints, stains and varnish, you'll need something stronger. In these cases, opt for a respirator. Be sure to understand the chemicals in your finish and use the right filters — particulate-level protection can block sawdust, and if your finish materials are relatively tame, that may be all you need. But if you're working with organic vapors, such as paint thinner, lacquer or epoxy-based resin, you'll need a filter with that designation.
• Gloves: A simple pair of gloves can keep you from sanding your own hand or getting chemicals on your skin. Even non-toxic paints and stains can be irritating and cause reactions. Plus, the dust in the air can dry out your skin. Wear some gloves to protect your hands.

Along with PPE, make sure your sanding and finishing environment is safe. For sanding, find a work area away from kids and pets, and ensure adequate ventilation, such as by opening a window or turning on a fan. If you can, try sanding outside, where you avoid building up particles in your home. When finishing, however, you want to avoid environments where dust, hair and dirt could land on your finished surface. However, be careful to follow all safety recommendations and keep harsh chemicals out of your living space.

HOW TO SAND CABINETS

With your materials in hand, you can move on to the fun part. Follow these steps for sanding your cabinets:

• Disassemble the cabinets: If you're working with existing cabinet doors, take your doors off the cabinets and remove the hinges, handles and knobs. Take a little extra time here to draw out your cabinet configuration on a piece of paper. Give each door a number and write it both on the paper and on the door. Write it in the space where your hinge will go so you can cover it up later.
• Strip the paint or degrease the surface: If you have a thick layer of paint or oil-based coating, slather on a layer of paint stripper. Wait for the amount of time directed and peel it up with your putty knife. If you're just working with bare wood, grab your degreaser and wipe down the cabinets to remove any residue.
• Fill in the grain or any holes: If you have a porous type of wood or dents and knots on the panel, apply wood-grain filler or your wood putty to keep everything smooth.
• Sand: Choose your grit and move your sander over the surface in smooth, even motions. For repainting jobs, start with 120-grit. If you don't need to add any paint and use another kind of finish instead, such as a topcoat or stain, you can work your way to 180-grit, then 220-grit. If you want to sand a new cabinet from the factory, you can go straight to 220-grit. Use a hand sander or sanding sponge to get in the crevices or curves. Remember to tap the sander occasionally to knock the dust off the sandpaper, and vacuum up your surface if sawdust builds up.
• Clean off your surface: Vacuum the sawdust from the surface and wipe it down with a tack cloth for a clean, dust-free cabinet. If your vacuum has a bristle attachment, use that to loosen up more dust. Unfold the tack cloth, wad it up and wipe down your surface. Unfold it and shake it out every so often, and get a new one if it loses its stickiness.
• Apply your finish: Apply finish to the cabinet. If you're using paint, you'll want to start with a primer and sand again between the primer and the paint. Use an extra-fine 220-grit and be sure to sand down any buildup, such as primer or paint that collected on the edges or in grooves. Follow the instructions for your finish and let it dry accordingly.
• Assemble the cabinets: With everything finished, attach your hinges, knobs and handles and put the cabinet doors in place.

CABINET SANDING AND FINISHING FAQS

There are a few variables involved in this process. Here are some common questions and answers about sanding and finishing cabinets.

WHAT CABINETS CAN YOU SAND?

Solid wood cabinets are the best candidates for sanding, but you can also sand medium-density fiberboard (MDF). You can sand cabinets that have been painted, stained or sealed, but you may need to remove those layers before sanding. If the finish is thin enough, you can probably sand right through it, but thicker layers are better served with a paint stripper.

You can sand laminate cabinets. While laminate may resemble wood, the core comprises various synthetic materials. You'll need to sand and prime these cabinets for painting.

SHOULD YOU SAND CABINETS BEFORE PAINTING?

The short answer is that it depends. If you're refinishing old cabinets, you'll need to sand them. This both removes the existing finish and creates a rough surface to which paint can adhere. But if you use new, unpainted cabinets, you can eliminate several time-consuming steps by avoiding sanding altogether.

Components like Ready-to-paint cabinet doors won't require any sanding or primer. You can skip straight to the primer or painting step. That also means you can simplify your setup — no paint thinner or small particles requiring a respirator and no need for a vacuum system. You can find cabinet components that are unfinished and ready to paint however you choose, as well as pre-primed cabinet options.

The same rules apply to using stain or sealant. Sanding is necessary on old cabinets you're refinishing but not factory-fresh ones. You want to create a rough surface to help your finish stick.

WHAT IS THE IDEAL GRIT TO SAND CABINETS BEFORE PAINTING?

To remove old paint or finishes, you want to begin with a coarse grit, around 80 to 120. You'll go from coarse grits to finer ones, scrapping off the old layer and smoothening the surface before painting. Finish with a finer grit, anywhere from 220 to 320. The higher you go, the more polished the surface will appear. You'll also want to use the finer grits between layers of paint, primer and coatings.

Lower sandpaper grits represent coarser sandpaper, and higher numbers represent finer sandpaper. Coarse grits have larger pieces of abrasive on the paper and will remove material more quickly, leaving a scratchier surface. Finer grits have smaller abrasives, offering more refined, polished results that are smoother to the touch.

WHAT KIND OF SANDER SHOULD YOU USE ON CABINETS?

You'll often need more than one type of sander to complete a sanding project. That's because they all have diverse capabilities that you combine to achieve a professional-grade surface. Here are common sanders for cabinets: 

• Random orbital sander: The random orbital sander is one of the most popular and versatile sanders. They offer the perfect middle ground between more aggressive sanders and refined finishing sanders. Random orbital sanders feature a disc, usually 5" in diameter, oscillating in a random, unpredictable motion. These movements prevent scratch marks and keep your surface looking smooth. You can buy this kind of sander in wired and wireless versions. If you don't have any special sanding needs, go with the random orbital sander.

• Finishing sander: A finishing sander is great for getting as much polish as possible. They have square or rectangular sanding pads and may come in various styles or with attachments to reach certain areas. Many finishing sanders can switch between orbital and straight-line sanding. Some worry that on the last pass, orbital sanding leaves cross-grain scratches. While a light touch and fine grit generally avoid this issue, a finishing sander can offer more control and smoothness over the process.
• Belt sander: If your cabinets have a lot of buildup or nicks to smooth out, a belt sander is a more aggressive option. It features a long, rectangular sanding surface from a belt of sandpaper that continuously loops through the machinery. They work best on large, flat areas and can remove more layers than other options, so only use them where heavier removal is needed.
• Manual sanding: While you could manually sand your cabinets entirely, it's more common to hand sand a few finishing touches or hard-to-reach areas. Flat sanding blocks can cover large areas, such as a final, more delicate pass over the cabinet. To get into nooks and crannies, you can also get sanding blocks in curved shapes, use the sanding paper as-is, or use a sanding sponge. You can also use steel wool or a scouring pad from the kitchen to get into grooves.

If you're not using a random orbital sander, move with the grain when sanding. Scratches moving across the grain can stand out, especially after finishing.

WHAT KIND OF FINISH SHOULD YOU USE AFTER SANDING?

There are many different types of finishes available to help you create the ideal aesthetic for your cabinets and your space. From reflectivity to moisture resistance to how it shows the grain, your finish can play a big role in the look of your new cabinet. Here are some of the most popular options for professional finishing:

PAINT

Paints offer some of the most reliable finishes to match diverse designs and aesthetics. With your cabinet well-sanded and prepared for finishing, you can paint it according to your preferences. Select from a wide range of color options for an entirely new look. Unlike other finishes, paint offers variety in terms of color without falling back to the wood's natural appearance. Some of the benefits of paint include:

• Multiple color options and shades
• Durability
• Easy maintenance

STAIN

If you don't intend to cover your cabinet with paint, consider staining. Stains highlight the natural appearance of wood while coating it in a subtle shade that gives it a unique look compared to plain wood. Tinted stains expose the grain but add a protective layer that makes the wood last longer. Remember, the color of your stain depends on the wood species and stain type. Stains can be oil-based, oil-and-varnish-based or water-based. Some benefits of stains include: 

• Exposed wood grain
• Durability
• Protection from the elements

THERMOFOIL

Thermofoil or rigid thermofoil (RTF) is a vinyl laminate with a smooth, nonporous surface. It's one of the most luxurious-looking finishes that involves pressurizing a vinyl film onto the cabinet. Applying thermofoil requires professional expertise. It's best to request it from your supplier. Here are the benefits of thermofoil:

• Resistance to peeling, fading and scratching
• Resistance to stain and moisture
• Easy to clean

TOPCOATS

Topcoats, which include varnishes, polyurethane, lacquer and shellac, add a sleek shine to your cabinets. They are some of the most common and versatile finishes with a smooth appearance. Topcoats are usually thicker and offer strong protection from nicks and scratches, making them a durable option.

Whatever finish you use, be sure to test it before applying. Stains and topcoats can vary in appearance on different surfaces. If you have a scrap piece of wood or a sample, use that. Otherwise, you can put it in an inconspicuous spot, such as the top edge or the back of the door.

Another way to make things easier when finishing your cabinets is to use plastic painter's pyramids. With a pyramid on each angle, you can cover the entire cabinet without uneven coverage or paint pooling at the edges.

HOW SHOULD YOU APPLY FINISH?

You also have a few options for applying your finish, including rolling, brushing and spraying.

Some finishes, like paints, do well with rollers that can cover lots of space with thin, uniform coats. However, rollers aren't good for getting the details. You'll likely need a brush to get into the nooks and crannies of your cabinet. Brushes are good for detail work and making thicker layers at once. Depending on your handiwork and the medium, brushing can also offer more visible paint strokes or smoother coverage. If you're going for a more rustic look, you may opt for this kind of style.

Be sure to match your brush to the medium. Use a natural bristle brush for an oil-based polyurethane finish and a synthetic brush for a water-based formula.

You can also spray your finish on. Airless sprayers are fast and can help you get a stroke-free finish in one coat. Still, you'll need to have the right equipment, which is more expensive than a brush or roller, along with cleanup supplies and a wind-free day. Spraying also uses more paint, and beginners might get uneven results.

MAKE THE JOB EASIER WITH CABINET DOORS ‘N’ MORE 

Now that you know how to sand wood smooth and apply a perfect finish, you can use this satisfying project to personalize your cabinets to match your preference. If you prefer a simpler approach, you can also eliminate some of the prep work by using components like cabinet doors that are already sanded or sanded and primed. 

Here at Cabinet Doors ‘N’ More, we carry a wide range of ready-to-finish cabinet doors in popular styles like raised and recessed panels, mullions, and Shakers. White primer is available for solid hard maple and MDF cabinet doors and drawer fronts.

With high-quality materials, free shipping and a user-friendly buying experience, you can update your kitchen without a complicated process. Explore our products online, or reach out to us with any questions.